About the toiletry soaps - Chemical and historical point of view

 

What is a toiletry soap? Chemical and historical point of view

 SAPONIFICATION:

Saponification is a process that produces soap from fats and lye.

Formula: Fat + lye + water     ------------->     soap + glycerine + water

 SAPONIFICATION AT DERMOLIA:

Dermolia uses only an exclusive olive oil for a fat. To know more about this unique oil, please check this page.

Dermolia uses NaOH (sodium hydroxide, 99.3% pure, high quality) for a lye

Dermolia uses a perfect quality Alps glacier water.

ABOUT SAPONIFICATION INDEX:

Each fat, after chemical analysis, has a saponification index that gets to be known. The saponification index gives the number of milligrams of NaOH needed to saponify one gram of this fat.

COMMONLY KNOW SAPONIFICATION INDEX FOR THE OLIVE OIL:

The saponification index of olive oil is around 0.135g of NaOH for 1.000 gram of olive oil.

Using this index, the chemical reaction is full. Get in mind that this type of reaction always needs water. PLEASE DO NOT TRY ON YOUR OWN INSTEAD YOUR ARE QUALIFIED TO DO IT OR AWARE OF THE POTENTIAL RISKS OF USING NaOH. THE REACTION WITHIN NaOH AND WATER CAN RESULT IN DRAMAS.

This means that if we blend 1g of olive oil and 0.135g of NaOH, we will obtain, after the natural chemical reaction, only soap + glycerine.

 ---> There is no more NaOH nor olive oil, but instead, soap and glycerine when the reaction is completed

ABOUT CAUSTIC SOAP

As a result of respecting the strict saponification index during the process, the types of soaps are really caustic, and could not be used onto the skin. These soaps would be perfect to clean floors or cloths.

TOILETRY SOAPS FROM DERMOLIA VS CAUSTIC SOAPS:

Dermolia adds systematically within 8% to 20% additional olive oil. This is an extra fat (Surgras in French). The formula at Dermolia would then be:

 

Olive oil + NaOH + water  --------------->     Soap + Glycerin + water + 8% to 20% additional olive oil

 

BENEFITS FOR YOUR SKIN THANKS TO THE BIG PROPORTIONS OF OLIVE OIL INTO THE DERMOLIA TOILETRY SOAPS:

 

Dermolia uses huge proportions of additional olive oil compared to the soaps we can find on the market that usually only hold within 2% and 7%.

Of course, the advantage of a big amount of olive oil is great for your skin. The best quality olive oil we use is known to be:

 

  • Emollient
  • A skin moisturizer
  • Against irritations
  • Antioxidant
  • Brings vitamins A, D, K and E
  • Relaxes the muscles
  • Puts the hair stronger and soften them
  • …….

COULD WE USE TOILETRY SOAPS TO CLEAN FLOORS OR CLOTHS

Yes we could, but we finnd 2 main drawbacks:

  • They are, by definition, more expensive because they hold more oil as needed
  • They tend to leave fat on the surfaces we want to clean. This means that they do not leave the surface shiny. Eventually on parquets, cleaning with a fat toiletry soap could be good considering that we use a cheaper oil as the one Dermolia currently uses.

DOES DERMOLIA SELL ORGANIC CAUSTIC SOAPS MEANT TO CLEAN FLOORS OR CLOTHS?

So far not, but the idea is here to propose this product soon. Please do not hesitate to write us and tell if you find this as a good idea. info@dermolia.ch

ABOUT THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF SAPONIFICATION PROCESSES:

They are different saponification processes:

 Hot saponification:

The older version that is still used by most of the soaps makers, is the hot saponification. The fat and the lye are cooked up to 3 days long, the mix is cleaned with salty water to quit the natural glycerine that would be sold for other purposes.

This process is like in the times were the chemists had still not understood the natural saponification process. They were using different types of lies, like ashes or mineral lime that were mixed with fats and cooked to process the saponification.

A new invention in 1791 that came to be the revolution of the soap making process – a start for a new civilization:

In 1791, Leblanc, understood how to build NaOH out of sea water. That is when the saponification process became to be much cheaper compared to the past. As a matter of fact, until the end of the XVIIIth century, he fact of buying different types of wood logs or mineral limes to create the lye before making the soap was far expensive.

The late discovery of the cold saponification:

Thanks to this invention, and thousands of tests made by the chemists since the XVIIIth century, we start seeing in chemistry books, in the second half of the XIXth century, the chemistry understanding/confirmation that the saponification is a natural process that can be done, without cooking the ingredients, thanks to the use of concentrated human built NaOH.

 

COLD SAPONIFICATION: ADVANTAGES FOR THE SKIN AND FOR THE ENVIRONNEMENT

The cold saponification has 3 mains advantages:

  • Lower energy consumption
  • Lower wastes because the soap would not be cleaned with salty water, that would be after while thrown into the rivers
  • The natural glycerine resulting from the cold saponification remains into the soap. The glycerine being well known to be one of the best natural skin moisturizers.

 

FROM THE USE OF CAUSTIC SOAPS TO THE CREATION OF TOILETRY SOAPS – SMALL HISTORICAL POINT OF VIEW:

Before the toiletry soap: Texts from the Ist century A.D to the end of the XVIIIth century:

Until the end of the XVIIIth century, the soap was mainly used to clean the floors and wash the cloths. We can read in the book “Rapport sur la fabrication des savons” / “Report on the soap making” from Darcet, Lelievre and Pelletier published in 1794 and printed under the order of the french “National Committee of public Safety”, that the soaps recipes are still quite unclear.

We see that the different fats that are used come from fish fat or tallow and that the lye is mainly done of ashes of different tree species or directly of natural salts or mineral lime. They talk a lot about the stinky sense of the oils, above all of the fish oil one, and they were funnily recommending to hang, after washing them, the bed-sheets on the meadow so that the strong stinky sense would not remain on the cloth.

Already in his Natural history, in 77 A.D, where he was attributing the invention of the soap to the Gallic, Pliny the Elder explained that the soap was made of goat tallow and beech ashes, he explained that this soap was meant to bleach the hair and was also used to heal sore throat.

We see here, that the soap had different functions before becoming to wash the human bodies.

The creation of the toiletry soap thanks to the invention of a cheaper lye:

It is thus only after the finding of the lye creation, that the toiletry soaps started to appear. The cost was much cheaper as before and many recipes started to appear. We cannot exclude other origins of the creation of the toiletry soap but the fact that the soap making process became to be much cheaper helped for sure in the daily use of it and in the understanding that the fact of personal hygiene had health benefits.

A toiletry soap, following the recommendation of “Le Guide du Fabricant de Savons” by Calmels and Saulnier, chemists, published in 1887, contrarily to the caustic soap:

 

  • Should contain better oils
  • Should be enriched with fats
  • Are recommended to be cut in forms that are not to straight so that it is more comfortable to use it on our body. That means that they should not have too straight edges.
  • Are recommended to be cleaned with alcohol to avoid the probable soda dust and to make them shiny
  • Are recommended to be packed properly
  • Should not be put into the same box of different types of bar soaps that have different senses so that the senses do not mix.

 

DERMOLIA FOLLOWS THE PROCEDURE RECOMMENDED IN 1887 IN “Le guide du fabricant de savons” WHEN MAKING THE DERMOLIA TOP OF THE ART TOILETRY SOAPS:

 

Dermolia:

 

  • Uses an exclusive organic olive oil
  • Enriches its soaps with big quantities of top of the art organic olive oil
  • Cuts manually the edges of the bar toiletry soaps to make it nicer when in contact with your body
  • Cleans the soaps one by one with methylated spirit (90%). Note that the methylated spirit is so volatile that it does not remain on the bar soap, it dries in seconds.
  • Are packed one by one, completely, so that the dust cannot affect them and above all to avoid that some other people can have touched them directly before you buy them.
  • Does not mix the soaps so that each of them remain with its personal sense
  • Brings the soaps to an official SWISS TESTING LABS laboratory to get sure they are compliant with the mains microbiological modern ISO norms.

 

WHY MOST OF THE SOAPS ARE STILL DONE WITH PALM OIL?

Unfortunately, in the second half of the XIXth century, the Mediterranean region could not produce olive oil enough, for the soap production. That is why, in this time of colonies, the palm oils started to be made by Europeans in tropical zones and came to Europe to be used instead of more noble products. This recently discovered oils had also the advantage to be cheaper. That is why in too many cases today, we still find this same ingredient, that we know, have a dramatic impact on the rain forest, animal life and on the world contamination process.

DERMOLIA USES THE OIL MADE OF ONLY THREE HUNDRED-YEAR-OLD OLIVE GROVES

Dermolia came back to the good and real roots, using the oil of only three hundred-year-old traditional olive groves. The olive oil is bottled on demand to avoid any type of oxidation (oxygene, light).

Dermolia created a strong relationship with its olive oil provider, who supports Dermolia in the elaboration and the delivery of the best product ever.

DERMOLIA ACTS TO PROTECT THE PLANET

  • Dermolia uses exclusively organic products
  • Dermolia is aware about the impact of the transport of the olive oil from Spain to Switzerland. This transport is however cost-less compared to Palm oil that travels over sees and destroys the forests and animal life. The oil that Dermolia uses has never traveled before coming to Switzerland, not like most of the oils that can be bought in Europe. In most of the cases, the olives have traveled hundreds of kilometers before getting pressed and mixed with other species coming from other places around Europe. That is not the case of the olive oil that Dermolia uses.
  • Dermolia uses only recycled paper to pack the soaps.
  • Dermolia uses a tiny piece of natural coloured Raphia to give a nicer style.
  • Dermolia does not use ink to print the labels. Only a thermal printer.

TRY DERMOLIA PRODUCTS

Dermolia products have been chosen by the biggest pharmacy of Switzerland, which sells them regularly. This is for Dermolia an honor to see that highest experts in cosmetics and pharmacy help Dermolia to be discovered by a larger public.


 


 

 

 

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